Wednesday, Jun. 24, 2009

Exploring Stockholm

By Rita Cook

Contributing Writer

Exactly what does the first-time visitor to Stockholm need to know about a city that recently won the first European Green Capital Award juried by the European Commission? Probably just that: Stockholm is a city that is really green on the inside and out.

The city was selected by the EC as the European Green Capital of 2010 because of several factors. First, Stockholm has at least 219 nature reserves, with the closest one just a 10-minute subway ride from the center of the city. The city has about 1,000 parks, which make up about 30 percent of the city’s area, attesting to the city’s love of nature. Along with superior water quality, Stockholm’s citizens work for the global environment.

Start your Scandinavian experience off by flying SAS to Stockholm. There are many reasons why this is the airline of choice for this trip, but most travelers will see value added by booking in the Economy Extra section of the plane (basically, our domestic carrier first-class equivalent). These seats are worth every penny with a 2-3-2 configuration: more legroom and a wider seat. Think power outlet, personal video screens and on-time flights and you’re on vacation before you even arrive.

Stockholm arrival time will be early morning, but you’ll be ready since you were able to sleep on the plane. Alert or not, take the time to gather a few facts. Stockholm, the capital of Sweden, is made up of 14 islands, which are centered on one of Europe’s largest and best-preserved medieval city centers. From bike paths, to hike paths to shopping, to food and a vibrant music and cultural scene, Stockholm is a leisurely type of destination that will make you rethink why you’ve never visited before.

With a population of about 800,000, every one of those Swedish smiles is genuine as you begin your first day walking around one of the many neighborhoods or visiting Old Town. In Old Town, you can buy lots of souvenirs or take the history in from the viewpoint of a fortification that was founded in the 12th century. In fact, it seems that Old Town overall is part of a living museum. Pedestrian-friendly, the narrow, winding cobblestone streets are certainly a throwback. Don’t be surprised if you wonder which fairy tale you wandered into.

Stop at the National Cathedral Storkyrkan (The Great Church) and gaze at the Royal Palace (one of the world’s largest inhabited palaces with 600 rooms), built in Italian Baroque style. London’s guards don’t have anything on this city, so don’t miss the changing of the Swedish guards — even on horseback sometimes — every day at noon.

Once you get acclimated, take a bike out on one of the many biking paths both in the park and through the city. You’ll look like a local immediately, because everyone in Stockholm rides a bike. Anywhere on the island of Djurgarden is a biking wonder, but be sure and stop in at Eco Park and the Prince Eugene art gallery for a coffee break.

In Sweden you will also notice there are a lot of "world’s oldest, best…" and that sort of thing, at the Skansen Open Air Museum. It’s the world’s oldest open air museum. You will see depictions of old farm houses and dwellings from around the country as well as farm animals and there’s a chance to learn about all the local Swedish food.

At the Vasa Museum there is a 230-foot warship named appropriately, Vasa. This ship sank on her maiden voyage in the early 1600s, right in the harbor. The ship was not salvaged until 1961, but now visitors can learn all about it and admire the ship since it was put back together and is on display.

The Nobel Museum is also located in Stockholm and even if you only have a few minutes, take the time for a look-see. A place of creativity, you will find out all about the Nobel Prizes and the many past winners as well as the founder Alfred Nobel. More than 800 laureates have been awarded this prize and each is presented in random order through a portrait and prize citation along a cableway in the ceiling. I could watch it all day, but nope, it’s lunchtime.

No trip to the Swedish capital would be complete without good eating, so for one meal be sure and make your way to the Grand Hotel, which dates back more than 130 years. It is here you will find the famous Swedish Smorgasbord and it is served year-round. Even better, the Grand Hotel is one of Scandinavia’s leading luxury hotels, so you really dine in style.

Follow that meal with a cooking class the following night, all the rage these days. The best option is Aptit Stockholm, which has been in business since 1999 and the chefs are personable and cool. They call it "active cooking," but luckily they also serve the best champagne and wine while you socialize and cook.

After a taste of your own cooking, stop in at the world-famous Icebar. Located down a side street just off one of Stockholm’s main thoroughfares, Icebar is in the lobby of the hip hotel called Nordic Sea. It’s the world’s first ice bar, opened in June 2002. No play on the name here, Icebar is just that, a bar made completely of ice. Even better, Icebar serves up Absolut Vodka only and the ice is from Northern Sweden’s Torne River.

Holding up to 30 people at a time, be ready to survive the temperature inside, five degrees below zero. As you enter the two doors leading into Icebar you will be given a silver cape and shoes to keep you warm. From the sculptures, to the bar, to the tables (no chairs — you enjoy the experience standing up) everything is made of ice.

Stockholm, whether you prefer the outdoors or discovering the city’s history at one of the museums, this city offers a culture that’s hard to beat, entwined with both a natural and an urban feel. Indeed, for any traveler looking for something that goes beyond just another summer vacation, make it a green one this year both for your heart and soul.

For details, visit www.visitsweden.com.